Iracing Dirt Wheel Settings For Logitech G29

Master Iracing Dirt Wheel Settings For Logitech G29. Get clear G Hub + iRacing numbers, per‑car tweaks, and quick fixes to catch slides and stop spinning.

Your G29 can feel like a rattle‑box on dirt—too light on entry, then it punches you in the exit. This guide fixes that. You’ll get wheel settings that make it easier to catch slides, read the cushion, and stop looping it in rookies. We’ll walk through Logitech G Hub, iRacing controls, and per‑car tweaks.

Quick answer: Set your G29 to 900°, center spring OFF. In iRacing: Wheel Force 2.1 Nm, Max Force 12–16 Nm (adjust by car), Min Force 10–12%, Damping 0.10–0.20, Smoothing 2–4, Linear Mode OFF, Reduce Force When Parked ON (50–70%). Then fine‑tune Max Force per car until you feel strong weight without “clipping” on big bumps.

What “wheel settings” mean on iRacing dirt (and why you should care)

Force feedback (FFB) turns the car’s grip and weight transfer into feel at the wheel. On dirt ovals, that feel helps you:

• Sense front‑end bite as the track slicks off.
• Let the wheel self‑center under throttle (self‑aligning torque).
• Catch the rear quickly when it yawns out on entry or over the cushion.

Too strong = clipping (everything feels the same, then snap spin). Too weak = numb (you can’t feel the car loading up). The goal is crisp detail with enough headroom for ruts, walls, and restarts.

Iracing Dirt Wheel Settings For Logitech G29 (Step‑by‑Step)

Follow these steps in order. It takes 10 minutes and saves you weeks of frustration.

1. Logitech G Hub (or Logitech Gaming Software)

• Create or select your iRacing profile.
• Steering Angle (Operating Range): 900°
• Center Spring: Off (0%)
• Sensitivity: Default (leave at center)
• Dampers/Filtering: Off (let iRacing handle damping)
• Allow Game To Adjust Settings: On
• Combine pedals: Off (calibrate throttle/brake/clutch separately)

2. iRacing Options > Controls

• Calibrate wheel and pedals fully (lock‑to‑lock; press pedals to 100%).
• Wheel Force: 2.1 Nm (G29 peak torque)
• Use Linear Mode: Off (G29 isn’t linear; this is for direct drives)
• Max Force: 12–16 Nm to start
  • Lower number = stronger feel
  • Raise number if you hit big spikes/clipping on cushion/ruts
• Minimum Force: 10–12% (overcomes Logitech dead‑zone at center)
• Damping: 0.10–0.20 (reduces oscillation without killing detail)
• Force Feedback Smoothing: 2–4 (tames gear chatter on dirt)
• Reduce Force When Parked: 50–70% (saves your wrists on grids)
• Per‑Car Controls: Leave “Use custom controls for this car” off unless you need unique bindings; iRacing will set proper steering lock per car.

3. Per‑car Max Force suggestions (baseline)

• Dirt Street Stock: 10–14 Nm (lighter, more feel)
• UMP/358 Modified: 12–16 Nm
• Pro/Super Late Model: 14–18 Nm
• 360/410 Sprint Car: 14–18 Nm (go higher if you ride the cushion hard)
• Midget: 12–16 Nm

4. On‑track tuning checklist (5 minutes)

• If the wheel feels like it “hits a wall” over bumps or the cushion, raise Max Force 1–2 Nm.
• If the car feels numb and you can’t sense front grip, lower Max Force 1–2 Nm.
• If the wheel oscillates down straights, add 0.02–0.05 Damping (up to ~0.20) or +1 Smoothing.
• If center feels dead, add +1–2% Minimum Force (don’t exceed ~14% on G29).
• Map hotkeys for “FFB Strength +/−” so you can adjust Max Force mid‑session.

Key things beginners should know (dirt‑oval edition)

• Let the wheel work: On dirt, the wheel wants to self‑center under throttle. Don’t death‑grip; guide it with relaxed hands and quick wrists.
• Cushion = the piled‑up dirt/ridge at the top groove. It’ll spike FFB when you tag it. You need enough Max Force headroom to feel it without clipping.
• Slick = polished, low‑grip lane. Feel the front “go light” before it washes. If you can’t, your Max Force is probably too high (too weak).
• Tight = car pushes nose; Loose = rear steps out. Your wheel should “go light” on tight and fight you a bit when the rear loads up.
• Safety/etiquette: On restarts, hold a steady wheel, don’t saw. If you’re not sure about your FFB, start inside or at the back until it’s predictable.

Equipment notes for G29 (what matters, what doesn’t)

• You don’t need mods to be fast in rookies. The stock G29 is capable with the right settings.
• A stable mount is huge. Flexy desks add wobble and oscillation.
• Pedal consistency matters more than wheel bling. If you upgrade anything later, a simple brake mod or load‑cell pedal helps you run the bottom without locking up.

Expert tips to improve faster (practical drills)

• Straight‑line yaw drill (5 min): In a test session on a used track state, cruise ~60 mph, flick the wheel 5–10°, and let it self‑center. If it whips back too hard, add 0.02 Damping. If it barely self‑centers, lower Max Force 1–2 Nm.
• Cushion control: At Eldora/Knoxville, run 10 laps high. You should feel the cushion “ramp up” through your hands. If it becomes a constant buzzing brick, raise Max Force or +1 Smoothing.
• Slick entry: Enter a polished middle lane a tick easy, lift briefly, then set throttle. Your hands should feel the front bite return before you roll back in. If that cue isn’t there, reduce Max Force 1–2 Nm.
• Hotkeys: Bind FFB Strength +/− and test 1 Nm steps over 5 laps. Keep the one that gives you the most repeatable corner entries with the fewest corrections.

Common beginner mistakes (and fixes)

• Linear mode ON with a G29: Makes the wheel feel weird and weak. Turn it OFF.
• Center spring enabled in Logitech software: Fake force that fights self‑aligning torque. Turn it OFF.
• Max Force too low: Feels “amazing” for 2 laps then you clip over bumps and start snap‑spinning. Raise Max Force 2–4 Nm.
• Max Force too high: Everything feels soft and numb; you miss front‑end cues, run wide. Lower 1–2 Nm.
• No Minimum Force: G29 dead‑zone hides micro‑grip changes. Use 10–12%.
• Too much damping/smoothing: Feels like steering through pudding; slow counter‑steer. Keep damping ≤0.20 and smoothing ≤4.
• Same settings for every car: Sprints and Late Models need more headroom than Street Stocks. Adjust Max Force per car.

FAQs

Q: What’s the single best Max Force number for a G29 on dirt? A: There isn’t one. Start 12–16 Nm. Go higher (weaker) for Sprints/Late Models that hit the cushion hard; lower (stronger) for Street Stocks/Mods on slick.

Q: Should I use Linear Mode on a G29? A: No. Linear Mode is for wheels with a linear torque curve (usually direct drives). The G29 is gear‑driven—leave Linear Mode OFF.

Q: How do I stop wheel oscillation on straights? A: Add 0.02–0.05 Damping (up to ~0.20), +1 Smoothing, or raise Max Force 1–2 Nm. Also make sure G Hub center spring is OFF and your mount is sturdy.

Q: What degrees of rotation should I run? A: 900° in Logitech, then let iRacing handle each car’s steering lock. That preserves the correct steering ratio and feel.

Q: Do I need third‑party FFB tools for iRacing dirt? A: No. The built‑in iRacing FFB with the settings above is strong on a G29. Add‑ons aren’t necessary for rookies to A‑license pace.

Q: My wheel feels great in practice but awful in races. Why? A: Race pace adds wall taps, cushion hits, and traffic. You’re likely clipping. Raise Max Force 1–2 Nm for race sessions to keep headroom for spikes.

Conclusion

Set your G29 once, then tune Max Force per car and track state. Aim for clear front‑grip cues, steady self‑centering, and no clipping over the cushion. You’ll catch more slides and stop fighting the car.

Next step: Jump into a Test session with your favorite dirt car, bind FFB Strength +/−, and run 20 laps. Adjust Max Force in 1–2 Nm steps until you can enter consistently and counter‑steer without surprises.

Suggested images (optional):

• Screenshot: iRacing Controls page highlighting Wheel Force, Max Force, Min Force, Damping, Smoothing.
• Diagram: Where the cushion and slick lanes develop on a 1/2‑mile dirt oval.
• Photo: Logitech G29 settings in G Hub with 900° rotation and center spring off.